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6466 NICOLAS JOLY SAVENNIERES ROCHE AUX MOINES CLOS DE LA BERGERIE 2014 750ml
6466 NICOLAS JOLY SAVENNIERES ROCHE AUX MOINES CLOS DE LA BERGERIE 2014 750ml


 

Price HK$420.00

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Code: F03250001BBJ2014
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Decanter 96

Known as the Coulée de Serrant’s little sister, this is a beautiful expression of Chenin Blanc. An explosion of flavours in the mouth, a sphere of orange blossom, white truffles, saffron and rich lemons. There is a multitude of flavour here, complex like you can barely believe, and yet each one is expressed with delicacy and finesse. Joly says he loves wines that ‘cast a light as they go’, and the poetry of that phrase makes total sense here. Indigenous yeasts and although under 10ppm of sulphur added, it’s remarkably stable – the wine we drank here had been open for 8 days and yet still tasted fresh and full of life. (Decanter)

RP92+

Intensely yellow in color, the 2014 Roche-aux-Moines Clos de la Bergerie has a deep and concentrated bouquet of ripe and stewed stone fruits along with herbal seeds. This wine needs a lot of time to open up and should be decanted for hours. Round, rich and elegant on the palate, with a racy acidity attack, great density and a lively mineral purity and backbone, this is a powerful, firmly structured Chenin; it has a good tannin grip and a long and intense finish. Still somewhat closed and bitter, but the concentration and rich fruit is obvious. Although I didn't have the chance to follow this bottle over days, I am pretty sure it will become an even more exiting wine with (much) more aeration. (eRobertParker)


Q :
Why the taste of Nicolas Joly wines are always different? Is this bottle variation? or wines are unstable?

A : Please imagine fresh fruits and canned fruits. Nicolas Joly's wine(and some other natural wines) are much closer to fresh fruits. As fresh fruits is changing every moment and affected a lot by environment, Nicolas Joly's wine is alive in the bottle and perform differently every season, every day and every time zone, rather than bottle variation. On the other hand, most of the wines which are distributed widely are produced as preserved food such as canned pineapple. Taste is same every day(stable and homogenised) and gettitng older slowly.



漂亮的琥珀色,帶著蜂蜜,黏黏,美味,複雜的味道,
名符其實是世界上的最頂級的白葡萄酒之一。

Nicholas Joly三塊田裡Clos de la Bergerie 最豐厚美。
Clos de la Bergerie inherits same style of Coulee de Serrant as well as Vieux Clos. Contains Botrytis too. Clos de la Bergerie is heaviest among three cuvees, and honey-like stickiness. Gras coats your mouth, seductively sweet, and long finish. This is the wine for pleasure. At least 3 hours decanting, ideally more than 12 hours.

Clos de la Bergerie carries another appellation : Savennières Roche aux Moines. The Middle Age of the vines is approximately 25 years. The grounds also made up of schists are a little thicker (30 with 80cm approximately). The outputs are of 25/30 hectolitres per hectare (50 authorized). The slopes less marked than for Casting are directed towards the east. The wine makings are made out of wood (never more than new wood 5%) and produce approximately 8,000-10,000 bottles per annum.

The quality of a wine is done especially before the harvest : the storeroom should be has our eyes only one maternity and never a factory. The wine making remains very simple; a certain number of acts like the relevurage, aromatic or not, osmosis etc… are banished. The wines are stored especially in old underground or the bases of the castle.



Every Nicolas Joly's wines require decanting. In 90's he strongly recommended us to do decanting 24 hours before drinking. However that was not pragmatic and not easy to handle, especially there was no chance in restaurant. Only experienced, skilful wine connoisseurs and wine geeks were allowed to drink this wine.

Today they changed suggestion about decanting. They just say "This wine must be decanted if possible" on the back label modestly. Are they compromising? or they changed their wine-making to be nice to mass-market? - No, they don't. The wines have been improved a lot these 10 years. They could capture best timing for harvesting precisely, and could obtain perfect maturation and good volume of botrytis. This is the reason why their wines no longer require decanting 24 hours before drinking. This is only one of the result. Obviously wines are much delicious than before and showing beautiful balance. But please do not misunderstand that these wines still can last more than 10 days after uncorking, even developing day by day. Needless to say about aging potential in the bottle. These wines can age many years.

* Please do not use ultra decanter. Small frasco type is ideal.
* Please keep 12℃-14℃ during decanting and drinking.
* This wine has sherry-like aroma by nature. But this is not oxidation in bad way.
If you like Jacques Selosse type Champagne, you will also like it.
* If you would like to see development of wine for several days, please keep decanter in the fridge.

Food matching is very easy.
Especially, Roche Aux Moines match the flavour of crab shell, lobster shell.

Chèvre, cream source, simple stew(chicken and mushroom) are perfect.
For the Chinese, many kinds of dim-sum, Lobster, Peking-Duck are good.

Hereunder is the old back label which was mentioning about 24 hours decanting.





Do not confuse oxidation with maturity

Chenin gets its complexity only when it is fully ripe – deep yellow. And only healthy, sustainable farming can guarantee this without grey rot. For this reason, all our grapes are picked in four or five passes as each parcel begins to raisin and form botrytis - thereby allowing the mineral flavors of Chenin to achieve their fullest intensity.

Once opened, wines made in this way continue to improve – and are in no way oxydized. To be sure that the color is not oxydation you can make the test yourself by tasting each day a glass over several days without putting the bottle in the fridge just recork. You will see the wine improving the first days even sometimes over more than a week.

If the wine would be oxydized it would be undrinkable.Our wines go well with white meat in sauce, fish with beurre blanc or even simply with a good cheese like goat cheese or Cantal. Open few hours in advance or carafe the wine. Serve at 14°C / 57°F. (by Nicolas Joly)

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SELECTION > NICOLAS JOLY - COULEE DE SERRANT
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THEME > NATURAL WINES (BIOLOGIQUE, BIODYNAMIE)